Off to Picturesque Paro

Aziz Haider recollects his trip to Bhutan’s Paro Valley, an enchanting land of snow-capped peaks, deep gorges, lush fields and a multitude of temples and monasteries.

As we drove towards Paro city, the rich, terraced farmlands and the men and women in newer well-creased, traditional clothes were ample proof that people of the area were more fortunate than their other Bhutanese counterparts. And keeping in line with our expectations, Paro Valley turned out to be a valley with temples and monasteries scattered all around.
Far ahead in the north, Mount Chomolhari (revered as a powerful goddess, 7,316 metres high) stood tall in white glory alongside its four attendant ‘sisters’ (mountain peaks). Their glacial waters plunge through deep gorges and then converge to form the Pa Chhu (Chhu meaning river) that flows through Paro and meanders towards the plains in the south.
With clear skies and a benevolent sun, we drove 18 km from the small town of Paro to Drukgyel Dzong. A look at the awesome mountains and deep gorges was enough to bring fear and excitement. It is at Drukgyel Dzong that the motor road ends and the famous trail to Chomolhari begins.
Before entering the Dzong, we took a stroll and stopped to admire the view. The scenery, no doubt, was overpowering. The high Chomolhari peak stood enormously behind the dark outline of lesser mountains, a perfect cone of faint silver. We looked back at Paro City, which was covered in a mist. Only a hazy picture emerged – of vast expanses of fields swaying padding, handsome village houses and small chortens. The Paro river snaked along the valley in a placid ribbon of silver, its banks covered with cascades of wild pink and white roses in full bloom. The only distraction to this breathtaking view was the dimdams (a minute insect with a vicious bite), which we had to constantly swat away.
Our first destination was Paro Dzong, also called the Rimpung Dzong. The seat of the district administration, it is an impressive, square fortress, representative of the Dzong architecture. Standing majestically over the knoll that rises from the gently flowing river below, Rimpung Dzong commands a view of the Paro Valley stretched out below. The Thongdroel, the most sacred, giant, painted and appliquéd scroll, depicting the eight manifestations of Guru Padma Sambhava with his two attendants, is displayed for a few hours on the concluding day of the Paro Tshechu festival, held in the month of April, every year.
Behind Rimpung Dzong, high on the hillside, is the majestic castle-shaped Ta-Dzong, the National Museum since 1967. The museum’s collection includes ancient Bhutanese arts and artifacts, weapons, stamps, birds and animals.
Our next trip proved to be the most wonderful of all. This was a trip to view the ‘Taktsang’ Monastery, literally meaning ‘Tiger’s Nest’. It is said that Padma Sambhava flew from Tibet on the bank of the legendary tigress, landing in the valley of Paro. A look at the monastery from a distance apparently confirmed to me the story of the legendary tigress. How else could somebody reach this place, other than flying? The monastery clings seemingly impossibly to a cliff of rock, all of 3000 ft (800 metres) above the valley floor. Reached only by foot or on horseback, it is one of the most sacred places in Bhutan and a pilgrimage that every Bhutanese dreams of accomplishing.
No doubt, Paro and Bhutan had captivated me right from the first moment I set foot on its soil. As the 72-seater BAe-146 aircraft of Druk Air left the Paro airstrip for Delhi via Kathmandu, we were treated for the last time to some breathtaking views of the world’s highest and most majestic peaks. The glistening Paro River was visible, winding its way through the fertile Paro valley as farmers worked in their fields, high up in the hills. I gave a long final look to the scenery below and dozed off to sleep. Even during my slumber, the mind kept turning the pages of the picture book called Bhutan.
Fact file
All foreign tourists are charged on a basis of $200 per day and get an attractive, all-inclusive package covering accommodation, transport, meals and the service of a personal guide throughout their stay in Bhutan. Indians, however, are exempted from this and can only pay for the services rendered.
Getting there
The convenient way for tourists to enter Bhutan is by air. Druk Air, the Bhutanese national airline, operates flights to Paro from Delhi, Kolkata, Bangkok, Dhaka, Kathmandu and Yangoon.. This is the recommended and safest route. Another way to enter Bhutan is by road through Phuntsholing, the gateway town, which is connected with the Indian State of West Bengal. Alternatively, one can fly into Bagdogra from New Delhi or Kolkata and then take the land route into Bhutan.
Accommodation
There are many comfortable hotels and lodges in all districts. At remote places, away from the towns and villages, there are purpose-built huts on some of the principle trekking routes. Camping out is a most cherished option.
Tips
Travel to Bhutan on FIT status is possible, however, the Tourism Authority of Bhutan (TAB) advises travelers to come in groups. A group can be as small as one or two people. Group travel, however, does not mean that the itineraries are fixed. They can be changed to suit the individual traveler or group members. Indians do not require visas to enter Bhutan.